These page entries are meant to be added to and usually start with general outline information, price guidance, suppliers and useful links followed by my worklog where I can put further info and photos as they come. Details of suppliers are listed in the Suppliers section.
Because of its ease of use polyurethane resin is the most common choice for small-scale casting and home craft-work. It is commonly opaque and fast-setting (usually 5-15mins, ready to demould 20-30mins) and mixed in two equal parts (easy to measure). It is generally less brittle than polyester resin and much easier to trim, sand or carve after setting, but also more expensive. Some types of polyurethane resin are significantly thinner than polyester and therefore a better choice for casting small, delicate or detailed forms. Some even, such as Tomps Fast Cast, are specially formulated to cure in very small amounts or in thin sections and can even be dosed with ml pipettes and mixed up on a tile.
Opaque polyurethane resin doesn’t involve quite the same ‘health & safety’ measures necessary when working with polyester. However, the transparent versions of polyurethane resin are much more hazardous and should be strictly avoided if working at home! Unlike polyester, polyurethane resins can have a relatively long green stage during which the cast form can be eased out of a difficult mould while it is still flexible. Any distortions occurring can be eased back, and in any case the ‘green’ form retains a memory of how it has been cast and will gradually return to that shape while curing further, if it is properly supported.
Advantages of using it
Often very thin and free-flowing, for filling especially slim or intricate forms giving excellent detail reproduction; fast-setting, quick to demould av. 25mins; stronger than plaster for delicate or hollow forms; lower odour and safer than polyester for indoor work .. though good ventilation is still essential!; easy 1:1 mixing ..can be by volume in some cases but almost always better by weight unless otherwise stated in the product directions!
Due to low viscosity, air bubbles do not usually build up while being mixed; – less brittle than polyester, though not as hard; – variety of types available (i.e. very low viscosity for detailed work, slow-set for ‘slush’ casting, semi-flexible versions etc.); – once fully cured easier to sand and tool than polyester; – fewer contamination issues (less tackiness); – takes powder pigment well though colour is muted on curing (though some powders can make the resin foam/expand a little if they contain moisture); – takes variety of fillers very well esp. Fillite; – compatible with Vaseline as barrier/release agent; some shaping possible in hot water, fixing in cold
As stated above, the longer ‘green stage’ during the curing process can be very useful, not only in extracting the cast from a difficult mould shape but also for easy trimming before the cast fully hardens. The length of this stage will vary a lot according to resin type or brand; room temperature (shorter in warm conditions); addition of fillers, and even slight variations in the mix ratio. It is even possible to cast PU forms in rigid plaster moulds as long as the right moment of the ‘green stage’ is caught, the undercuts are minimal and the plaster surface is sufficiently greased i.e. with Vaseline. Another way of taking advantage of this ‘green stage’ is by purposely bending a cast form and securing it in that position while curing. If it is prevented from returning to its cast shape it will harden in that position. For example, a shallow relief could be modelled, moulded and cast as flat, but the cast could be superglued to a curved surface while still flexible. I’ve found that as long as the underside of the cast is clean, superglue will take to it immediately.
Choice of unfilled or pre-filled brands (i.e. already with a certain amount of inert filler material); opaque when set .. usually ranging from white to light-beige; some resins can be heated after curing for heat-bending, but usually only thinner sections.
Easy clean-up of uncured PU resins with meths or acetone.
Many polyurethane resins start transparent but turn opaque on setting. This has an advantage because trapped air bubbles can be spotted and dealt with in a shallow mould before the resin turns.
Very short working time (usual 3-6mins) and sudden cure needs getting used to .. practise needed in timing for mixing and pouring; – not cheap (av £15 per kg) and not significant discounts for larger quantities as with polyester resin; – transparent versions not an option (major health&safety issues); – discolours in time under daylight (i.e. after a number of months of direct exposure to sunlight pale ivory will become light brown, and there is no UV blocker available for polyurethane); – cannot be made properly thixotropic, though fillers will thicken (see below); – ‘bleeding’ from casting can occur with less-than-thorough mixing or uneven 1:1; – limited shelf life, officially c 12mths but usually longer in practice; – strong exothermic reaction (heat generated)
Because of its opacity when cured the effect of fillers is muted compared to polyester. For example ‘cold metal casting’ is normally only done with polyester .. a metallic effect is possible with polyurethane, but never very convincing.
To explain what is meant by the lack of a properly thixotropic option with polyurethane resin .. when other materials such as silicone rubber or polyester resin are made ‘thixotropic’ it doesn’t just mean that they are thickened or made ‘sludgey’, it means that they become effectively non-slump or, if you prefer, more like a gel than a liquid, meaning that in this state they can be easily spread and built up but will not creep downwards even on a vertical surface. Polyurethane resin on the other hand can only be ‘thickened or made sludgey’ by the use of fillers and it won’t be non-slump. Note 2017 Polytek has produced ‘Poly Fiber II’ for thickening PU resins and rubbers (see entry in ‘Common fillers for resin casting’).
Persistent greasiness on the surface of the casting can often occur if too much hardener Part B has been added. This is likely to happen if the two parts have been portioned by volume instead of by weight (as it usually should be), because the hardener part is usually heavier of the two .. so an equal volume of hardener would be too much!
When the resin is first bought write the date clearly on both containers, also with a note of the recommended shelf life (see guidance on this at the beginning of the ‘quick view’ comparisons in this section). Before use .. and before every use .. the contents of both containers should be properly remixed, being especially thorough with Part A, the ‘resin’ part, because this will have filler material which will have sunk to the bottom. In fact, there will be noticeable separation within Part A even if the resin is sold as ‘unfilled’. It may not be necessary to actually stir with a mixing stick .. often a good circular sloshing motion with the container for a minute or so will be enough .. though with the ‘resin’ part checking with a stick for any sediment left would be sensible!
The cans or bottles which polyurethane resin comes in are hardly ever suitable for pouring small amounts from! .. instead decant amounts of both parts into plastic cups first if you need more fine-control while dosing. Cans for parts ‘A’ and ‘B’ are usually identical except for some labelling details, and with identical lids .. mark these ‘A’ and ‘B’ to avoid getting mixed up!
Easy-mixing 1:1 parts A and B (by weight, more accurate). Part A usually the ‘resin’ part, most often the lighter in colour and cloudier (usually because filled). Part B usually the ‘hardener’, darker and clearer. Different brands can be inter-mixable as long as the right parts are used (though make tests first). Setting can be slowed (or cast more rubbery) by adding less than 1:1 hardener and vice versa. Working time also increased by storing in fridge. All PU resins (and rubbers) are moisture sensitive, conditions should be as dry as possible (some recommend only using mixing equipment of plastic, metal or glass even so that absorbed atmospheric moisture isn’t transferred).Some manufacturers emphasize need for ‘room size’ ventilation and warn against heat buildup in excess of 100C for large forms.
Mix using disposable plastic ‘party’ cups and hold the cup palming the bottom. Mix thoroughly but quickly and stop to pour as soon as there’s a hint of warmth from the cup. Small amounts should not need much more than about 10secs thorough mixing.
Uncured resin is not regular domestic waste and has to be taken to recycling!
Testing polyurethane resin before use
It’s worthwhile testing the resin either if newly bought or not used for a while, just to see whether it will behave as it’s supposed to. You’ll need to find this out first .. either from the info which comes with the product, or from the suppliers or the manufacturers websites. The following is a basic test of Sika’s Biresin G26 which was newly bought and which performed exactly as expected. If you are using G26 you can compare this directly or use it as a general guide because other polyurethane resins should be similar unless they’re marketed as having unusual properties.
1/ Make sure the contents of each closed can is fully distributed i.e. by strong rocking/circling/revolving rather than shaking like an aerosol. Do Part B for 1 minute, Part A for 2 minutes. Part A, the ‘resin’ part, is usually more prone to separation than Part B if it’s been on the shelf for a while. I think this is because of a filler, even though it occurs also with resins which are marketed as ‘unfilled’.
2/ Test that your measuring scales are working properly. Inexpensive kitchen scales do have quirks. A good test perhaps is using two small piles of coins .. weigh each, turn scales off, weigh again etc. Then weigh them together and see if the info fits.
3/ Pour 15 grams Part A, then 15 grams Part B into one disposable clear plastic cup.
4/ Mix together with a clean stick. Hold the cup in your palm while mixing so that you can feel when it starts to get warm. This should be within 2 minutes, then you can stop mixing.
5/ The liquid should start to develop ivory clouds within 5 minutes after mixing.
6/ Within 10 minutes after mixing it should be fully opaque and solid but like very hard rubber, still very hot. It’s still possible to make a slight dent with your fingernail in the surface at the centre.
7/ Between 25-30 minutes after mixing the whole mass should be ‘glass hard’ i.e. no longer possible to make an impression with your fingernail at the centre of the cup. You should cut the cup to take it out and even the residue film made in the cup by mixing should come out cleanly with it although this thin film will be very flexible.
Some resins have difficulty curing in very small amounts or cast in very thin sections. If you want to make very thin castings or mix very small amounts look for a PU resin that’s specially designed for this .. Biresin G26 and Tomps Fast Cast for example.
Higher temperatures (including deliberately warmed moulds) can speed up curing, lower temperatures will slow down.
If casts are taken out of the mould when firm but still flexible they can be trimmed easily in this ‘green’ state.
Many PU resins start transparent (so air bubbles can be detected in shallow moulds) and set pale opaque. Clean-up uncured resin with acetone or methylated spirits.
Pre-coloured PU resins can be bought (for example sylmasta.com offers a range of colours or even bespoke RAL or Pantone colour matching, for a few £s more than their regular PolyCast resin prices). Bear in mind that polyurethane resin will always discolour over time, even though addition of pigment will lessen the visible effect.
What it costs and where to get it
Prices are from May 2017 and are adjusted to include VAT
SIKA Biresin G26 £38.30 2kg (Tiranti) I’ve used this on-and-off for a long time and it has always been reliable .. keeps well, flows well for fine detail .. though it is not the cheapest or the thinnest. Unfilled, viscosity 70cps. Normally 3-4min working time and 30min demould but can be sooner especially if taking advantage of ‘green stage’ when resin is still partly flexible but can be demoulded. I’ve found that G26 has a longer green stage than other resins tried. Cured colour light beige, Shore D 70, SG mixed 1.1. Manufacturer’s recommended shelf life 12 months .. keeps for longer if air contact is minimised. Read MSDS supplied on Tiranti website .. Part ‘A’ classed Xi Irritant, Part ‘B’ classed Xn Harmful and ‘dangerous’ with some evidence of a carcinogenic effect .. hmm, this I keep forgetting!
EasyFlo 60/120 £31.99 per 1.9kg (4D), £27.52 per 1.9kg/£103.21 per 9.5kg(mouldlife.net). Made by Polytek. The numbers in the names of the different types denote their viscosity in cps. EasyFlo 60 has a very short 2min working time and just 15min demould. EasyFlo 120, the thicker one, is specially designed for ‘slush’ or rotational hollow casting, 2min working time, 15-30min demould. Cured colour opaque white. SG when mixed 1.03. EasyFlo is noticeably more ‘plastic’ i.e. a little more flexible when cured than other polyurethane resins. The big difference to note with EasyFlo is that it can be mixed 1:1 by volume and if by weight needs to be mixed in the ratio of 100A:90B! Shore D 65. The manufacturer recommends meths as a cleanup agent and shelf life of 6 months. Read MSDS supplied on Mouldlife website .. Part ‘B’ classed Xi Irritant, Part ‘A’ classed Xn Harmful.
Fast Cast polyurethane resin Used to be one of the least expensive, but prices have been creeping up for a couple of years .. it’s still very good value since it’s a very reliable resin! £10.74 per 500g kit, £32.34 per 2kg, £113.40 per 10kg (tomps.com). Extra-fast and extra-thin PU resin (Tomps claim that the viscosity is as low as 40cps but it’s actually a little over 50 .. very thin though!), pot-life 3-4mins, demould after 30 mins. Cured colour pale beige .. slightly more translucent than Biresin G26, but a similar ivory colour. Has a low viscosity because it comes unfilled .. different to many other PU resins which include an amount of filler usually with Part A. Shore D 72 when fully cured. Manufacturer’s recommended shelf life 6 months. Read MSDS supplied on Tomps website .. Part ‘A’ classed Xi Irritant, Part ‘B’ classed Xn Harmful.
Parts A and B must always be mixed by weight because they have different SG (specific gravity, in other words weight by ml). Part A has an SG of 1.02 while part B is 1.14.
PolyCast G27LV obtainable from sylmasta.com sounds similar. Viscosity given as 35mPas (same as ‘cps’), pot-life 2mins, demould 15 mins. £29.28 per 2kg, £125.82 per 10kg
Fillite with PU resin £4.79 1kg, £16.50 5kg (tomps.com). An expanded ash material, a popular filler for resins. Resin will generally accept up to 4x its volume of Fillite without affecting setting process but the mixture starts to become too thick to pour easily after about 2x. If using any filler with resin, care should be taken to keep the filler completely dry i.e. always in sealed containers, away from atmospheric moisture, otherwise it can cause the resin to foam. Fillers are commonly used with resins for various reasons .. to economise; to make the casts either lighter or heavier; to make resin harder or softer; to impart a colour or appearance; to thicken for making hollow shell casts, etc .. Normally the filler is mixed thoroughly into one part of the resin, part ‘A’, before the measured amount of part ‘B’ is added. Naturally the mix will thin down once part ‘B’ is added. If you are adding filler to achieve a specific thickness and want more control over that, measure out both resin parts and mix filler into both before putting them together. Mixing filled resin parts needs more thoroughness to properly distribute them!
Further info sources
Painting polyurethane resin
According to the Smooth-on site the chances of painting polyurethane resin successfully are very slim, and the methods they suggest are beyond the means and patience of most! At the other extreme, you’ll read comments from modellers on forums like ‘I’ve painted my resin castings with anything and no problems so far’. Neither these sources, nor Smooth-on’s failsafe stance are very helpful, through their brief advice on powder coating is interesting
The truth is that if you’ve mixed the resin properly in the first place; you wait a good few days for full curing; you clean the castings as suggested below and you use a paint that’s marketed as suitable for painting plastic .. you’ll get a painted surface which will probably last longer than you, as long as it’s subjected to no more than very occasional handling or feather-dusting! It’s a very different matter if your painted castings are going to be used like toys .. that’s where all the doubts and questions come in!
Notes in progress ..
It is essential to wait at least a few days to allow resin to fully cure before painting is attempted. Wash thoroughly first using warm water and detergent (warm, as opposed to hot water which may soften the resin!) to remove mould release residue if this has been used. Also PU resins can ‘sweat’ for a while after curing, especially if the 1:1 mix hasn’t been exactly right, and this greasiness can prevent proper painting if it isn’t thoroughly removed by washing. An alternative to washing with water/detergent is to clean thoroughly with acetone and then to wipe down with a damp cloth. A further alternative is to wash using a scouring powder, until the surface dulls (e.g. Tesco value cleaner, possibly Vim or Cif). This provides an even better key for whatever follows.
If you then intend to paint with water-based acrylics it is essential to prime .. in addition to the above steps. In fact whatever paint one’s going to use, the surface will be more durable if primed. I always recommend Simoniz auto primers (available in either white, grey or brick-red .. shake a good 2mins, light spray, every 15mins, 2-3 coats). Another very good product is Rust-Oleum Plastic Primer! If I am following the primer with another cellulose spray colour or solvent-based paint I wait 3hrs for the primer to dry. If on the other hand I’m following with a water-based acrylic I usually wait 24hrs.
Alternatively there are dedicated brush-on plastic/metal primers (self-etching) which need to be applied in successive thin coats, achieving opaque coat .. but I can’t vouch for these.
Finishing with polyurethane varnish (takes a week to harden). Or prime with shellac, or light stipple with Polycell FSP (good adhesion) ..
Humbrol enamels will adhere very well to plastics without the need for a primer, though cleaning is always essential. Hard acrylics (e.g. Tamiya etc. for plastic models) may also be suitable.
Polyurethane resin coating
The thinner and slower-setting types of polyurethane resin are ideal for brushing a thin, protective shell on either polyurethane foam or styrofoam shapes .. firstly because it binds firmly with polyurethane foam and secondly because, unlike polyester resin, it will not dissolve styrofoam. These PU resin types are also designed to cure properly even in very thin sections (some do not because they need the extra heat generated by larger volumes to assist their curing). This advantage means that very small amounts of resin can be mixed on a tile in very small amounts, rather like a paint .. rather than having to waste a lot of resin mixed in a beaker because it cures too quickly!
A normal paintbrush can be used for coating, and as long as this is quickly rinsed in acetone before the resin has congealed too much the brush can be saved.
For more on this including examples see Shaping styrofoam in the Materials section.
Hi David, thanks so much for compiling this great resource! I’ve recently got into casting with Polyurethane resin and your website has been invaluable, I’ve been learning so much.
I have a question that I was hoping you might be able to help me with (and others who perhaps have a similar issue). I’ve been using silicone rubber moulds to cast plant pots (upside down, so that the bottom of the pot is at the top of the mould and the sides of the pot are approximately vertical). The sides of the plant pot are quite thin (~4mm); however the polyurethane resin cures fine for a small pot, but for larger pots (still with the same wall thickness) it does not. I was hoping you might know why this is?
Thanks so much!
I have no idea why the larger should be any different, if the resin is from the same batch (containers); the mould the same; the mix the same; the conditions the same, etc. Maybe someone else who sees this might have an idea, but I can’t think what it could be.
Thanks for your reply, David. Yes to all those questions. The only thing I could think of is that the mould for the larger pots has a lot more mass and a lot more surface area in contact with the relatively thin sections of cast polyurethane, so perhaps it is taking away too much heat from the exothermic curing reaction, which the resin needs to properly cure? I’m not sure if I’m on the right track there… If you or anyone else has any thoughts on this then please let me know! Thanks so much.
You could be right about the extra thickness of rubber cooling the resin and affecting its cure. So you could try very gently warming the mould. As well as cold, the thing PU resin really doesn’t like is moisture so warming the mould ie with a hairdryer or heatgun would cure both issues. If it’s small enough you could put it in an oven (if you have a workshop one dedicated to nasty stuff; don’t use your home one!!). However, if too warm it could substantially speed up the cure to the point where it goes off too fast, before it’s had a chance to flow to all the right places so be very tentative with this idea! Can’t think of anything else to suggest.
Thanks Rachel, I’ll try warming the mould and see if this resolves the issue!
It was interesting when you talked about how polyurethane won’t form air bubbles when it’s mixed due to its low viscosity. When I think about it, it seems like that would be an especially helpful property to have when casting materials need to be mixed in high volumes. Thanks for sharing this article and talking about some of the key features and advantages of polyurethane!
Thanks Eileen! Yes, I rely on particularly low viscosity PU resin because I don’t use any form of pressure chamber (because in my teaching work it’s unlikely that anyone I teach will have one). I doubt though that air bubbles in PU resin are any more/less of a problem according to the volume, except the fact that high volumes will inevitably shorten the working time (exothermic progression) so mixing has to be more ‘frantic’! It was interesting looking at your website for comparison with what I use here, or what I know of Smooth-On.
Thank you so much for all the valuable information on your blog. You mentioned that polyurethane resin is the safer one of the resins. Are there resins that are safe for skin contact after curing? I am looking to create an earplug out of a mold and need a resin that can safely be worn inside of the ear at all times.
I have talked to a few manufacturers that said they were not sure if a resin like that was on the market. Am I able to find a resin that is completely safe on the skin after curing?
I would appreciate any kind of response and thank you for your time in advance.
I don’t know about the resins but perhaps you should look at hard silicones?
One more question while I’m here, Working with dark PU resin (adding black/brown pigment) to make a African skin tone. How to sand without being left with a pale almost white surface of the seam lines? using the finest grade (After reading your blog, I’m now thinking of trying wire wool or Brillo pads) Once again thank you
I think maybe the only way to eliminate these sanding ‘highlights’ showing up is to carefully go over them with a colourless furniture wax (or possibly a matt varnish, or even oil would work the same) .. because this is how they’re dealt with in woodwork.
Hi David, wonderful blog, glad i found you. you offer way more than even the great Bentley’s. My problem is with sweating after de-molding, not straight away but after a week or so! I sand the parts, wash them in luke warm water with detergent, dry them, spray them with a plastic primer to enable me to paint the faces (I should tell you I make dolls) then after painting i apply a matt surface sealer (Mr super clear) But when all this is done I’m getting the sweating on some parts, it even pushes the paint off. The base resin was kept at room temperature, I weigh A + B to get exact. but still getting the sweating. It’s very annoying. Do you have any incites? Thank you in advance.
Hello Mark, It sounds like you’ve taken every precaution so I’m not sure what to add. That occurs, yes, if the mix is not exact enough or if not thoroughly mixed (I usually do 20-25seconds plus), or if it is too old (say more than 2yrs, though sometimes it’s still fine). There’s a chance that adding deliberately a tiny bit more ‘hardener’ part could help but I’m not totally sure.
What an instructive blog I came through. Very clear instructions and definitions. And more clarifications coming from questions/requests.
Nicely done and very sharing mind.
I’ve been thinking about using polyurethane resin on bandage instead of plaster of Paris.
Of course price wise it would be far costly but just to be curious and would like to know how far is it possible
Diping the bandage on the resin would be the right way or applying by brush the PU the best?
Yes, I’ve done this and it works very well .. very speedy! But that’s also the problem! With polyurethane resin you have only minutes to use it .. so you have to mix very small amounts at a time; slap it on quickly with a stiff painting brush, stippling it into the bandage fibres; not wasting any time .. then, as soon as you’ve either used up all you’ve mixed or what you’ve got left starts to ‘turn’, you can quickly clean the brush in a jam-jar of acetone, so that you can use it again.
Hi, Thanks for the blog, just wanted to ask one thing, after mixing the two parts can i store the mixture for future use , if yes then how can i store that and for how long ? Thanks in Advance
No .. not unless you’re a time-traveller! As soon as mixed the resin will set in 10-15mins no matter what you do.
Thanks very much for taking the time to read & reply to my post, David! I will definitely look into Cabosil. All the best – Rachel
Hi David – wonderful blog, thank you for your generosity in sharing knowledge. I am currently using a Smooth On polyurethane product, Smash Plastic, to make prop bottles in a manual rotocaster, and having lots of issues with slumping, fragility etc – wondered if you had any experience of this or knew of anyone who has used it successfully that I could ask for advice? I’m currently getting some help from the tech guy at the only UK supplier, Bentleys, but keen to connect with other makers and hear if their experience using the stuff…it’s a very temperamental substance!
I can’t advise specifically .. never used this .. but you couldn’t really do much better than advice from Bentley’s .. they’re good and particularly keen to help! In general terms though, one thing you could try is using a thickener called Cabosil. I know this works with polyurethane resin because I’ve tried it and I’m guessing that it shouldn’t affect translucency too much.
So we are making a linear led strip in an aluminium profile , over which we are potting the profile to make it Waterproof with Polyurethane resin from electrolube . Post curing the finished profile has a very glossy finish . We require a satin smooth or matte finish over the surface . Unable to achieve this , kindly help
I know of nothing one can add to polyurethane resin itself to impart a matte or less glossy surface on the ‘air exposed’ curing parts .. I wish I did because I would use it like a shot when painting with PU resin! As I see it one’s only options are a) once the resin has cured to carefully ‘sand’ the surface matte using perhaps a kitchen scourer or similar b) to spray with Glass Etch spray or similar. The third option might be to dust with something while the top surface is still tacky .. but I don’t know which powder would be best or how tricky this is. I’m experimenting with painting polyurethane resin at the moment and I came across Owatrol ESP (Easy Surface Primer) which is apparently clear/colourless and allows the adhesion of any kind of paint on ‘glossy’ surfaces like melamine, ceramic or glass! It’s just a hunch but maybe this on its own will dull down the gloss?
hi david i used g26 and have closed 2 parts profesional siliconen molds but every time i want take out the model from my mold after some hours,it breaks it is not strong enough or do i need to let de mold 24 hour alone and then take out my model???
There’s something going very wrong there! How old is the resin? Are you mixing by weight? Biresin G26 should be fully ‘strong’ enough at most 30 minutes after mixing (though not yet fully cured). Do all the following as a test: 1/ make sure the contents of each closed can is fully mixed up i.e. by strong rocking/circling/revolving rather than shaking like an aerosol. Do Part B for 1 minute, Part A for 2 minutes; 2/ test that your measuring scales are working properly; 3/ pour 15 grams Part A, then 15 grams Part B into one disposable clear plastic cup; 4/ mix together with a clean stick. Hold the cup in your palm while mixing so that you can feel when it starts to get warm. This should be within 2 minutes, then you can stop mixing; 5/ the liquid should start to develop ivory clouds within 5 minutes after mixing; 6/ within 10 minutes after mixing it should be solid but like very hard rubber, still very hot; 6/ between 25-30 minutes after mixing the whole mass should be ‘glass hard’ i.e. no longer possible to make an impression with your fingernail at the centre of the cup. You should cut the cup to take it out and even the residue film made in the cup by mixing should come out cleanly with it. Let me know how that goes!
Thank you so much for such extensive info on the polyurethane resin. Not even the manufacturer was able to give me this info…
I set out to learn how long PU would take to dry, but ended up learning so much more.
Thanks, nicely said!
Glad I found you! The information you provide on your site is amazing! Your work is too. Thank you for sharing!
I was hoping you could give some advice on my project relating to urethane casting.
I am trying a new venture, casting wall clocks for production sales. The originals are made of clay, each no more than 2 cm thick, roughly 75 x 30 cm in size. Intricate scroll work surrounds a clock face. The scroll work looks carved with various relief and voids. Molds will be made of silicone, casts in urethane resin. I do NOT plan to use a release agent.
Optimally, I’d love to use acrylic paint for ease of application and clean-up but I want to avoid spray primer more. Spraying every piece, nook and cranny will be quite time consuming, not to mention smelly. To save time I’d also like to skip the cleaning part. Considering the complexity of design and number of products this would be very time consuming as well.
For my purposes, I was hoping I could color the urethane dark for an overall base color and sort of dry-brush Humbol Enamels on top. Relief would be enhanced by leaving the dark colored crevices visible. In theory this process should eliminate both the priming and cleaning, and the step of wiping a wash off the entire piece afterward.
I see here in the States, Humbrol only comes in small sized containers so this may be a factor to consider.
I was hoping you could offer any suggestions or improvements on this process. So far research is calling for lots of prep work which may render this financial venture- pointless.
Basically you’re right .. if there’s any paint for polyurethane that could ..possibly, maybe ..circumvent the preparation process, it’s Humbrol enamel! I think you’d still need to wait a few days after casting and not forego washing/scrubbing down in warmish water and detergent to remove any greasiness though.