March casting exercise – ‘Two legs good..’ Part 3

Part 2 of this exercise, posted at the beginning of February, finished with the completion of a multi-piece silicone rubber mould of a plastic rhino toy used as a practise form. The form had two special requirements; the first being the need for a separate ‘plug’ piece to fill the area under the belly (between the four legs) and the second, as an extra safeguard, a separate mould piece for the top half of the head because otherwise the details of horns and ears would be difficult to fill without trapping air. This head portion will be cast first and then inserted into the main mould before casting the rest.

This technique of casting in stages, let’s call it additive casting, works best when working with resin because this usually binds strongly to itself. Resin was also necessary for this form because it is a relatively small size, and the horns and ears could be especially fragile. I am using a standard, low-viscosity (thin and flowing) polyurethane resin from Sika called ‘Biresin G26’. Most polyurethane resins are reasonably thin and can flow into quite intricate moulds. Most also share the following characteristics: they are supplied in two parts which are mixed in equal measure; these two parts are usually translucent until mixed, turning opaque as they cure to anything from white to beige dependent on the brand; initial hardening is quick (5-20mins); they are strong when fully cured but rarely brittle, retaining a little flexibility; they can easily be coloured or filled with other materials. In fact it is common to add a filler to resin, partly to economise. For this exercise I am using a specially manufactured ash called Fillite, a certain amount of which can be added to the resin without making it difficult to pour. It also gives it an interesting surface quality. Many powdered materials (such as talc, marble or slate dust) can be used as fillers as long as they are inert i.e. not affecting the chemical reaction which has to take place for the resin to cure.

The photo above shows equal amounts of Parts A and B of the polyurethane resin measured by eye in disposable plastic cups. The same amount of Fillite (light grey) is also portioned. I have found that this proportion, in total 2:1 resin to Fillite is best if one still wants the mix to flow. One can add much more filler to the resin if one wishes but this results in a thicker mix which is more suitable for spreading than pouring. This for example might be ideal for laminating, that is, building up a shell inside the mould parts in order to make a hollow cast instead of pouring a solid one.

The Fillite must be mixed into one part of the resin ( I’ve found it doesn’t really matter which) before the two resin parts are mixed together. This is because once the resin parts are mixed the time available to pour is very limited, basically just a couple of minutes. In the photo below the small head mould is supported on a bed of rice (so that its position can be easily adjusted). Working quickly, a little of the resin mix was poured into the recesses of horns and ears first and a cocktail stick poked around to displace trapped air, then the rest was poured. It is difficult to mix very small amounts of resin properly, particularly if there are three parts to the mix so I usually mix up larger, more measureable amounts and, if there’s time, use the excess for filling something else.

Above, these details on the rhino head (especially the ears) would never have filled properly if pouring the whole form from the top in one go. Small castings in resin may take a little longer to cure (the standard term for setting by chemical reaction rather than hardening simply by evaporation of water) since the greater the volume of resin the more heat is generated, which in turn accelerates curing. Large resin casts (whether polyurethane or polyester) can become extremely hot during this process!

The head portion has been eased into its position in the main mould. It will of course fit snuggly since it’s the identical form. When the mould is reassembled and secured tightly more resin can be mixed to fill the rest of the form. As long as the same proportion of Fillite is used the colours will match and the join should be invisible. It doesn’t matter how fully cured the head portion has become in the meantime; the new resin will bind firmly to it. Below is the mould set-up ready for pouring, couched on a bed of rice so that the mould top can be checked with a spirit level and adjusted. Since I have not incorporated pouring funnels etc. in this particular case, an extra precaution was to grease the plaster part of the mould top with Vaseline so that in the event that resin overflowed it could be more easily peeled off once hardened.

The form was carefully demoulded (taken out of the mould) after about 20mins. The plug was kept in place untill last of all partly to protect the legs which would be in a slightly softer state than the body untill fully cured. Full curing of resin varies with type but can usually take a few days.

However well-fitting the mould pieces might be there will always be wafer thin  ‘flashing’ where the resin has seeped into the mould seams. Polyurethane resin cures very quickly and can normally be safely demoulded after about 15 minutes, though various brands may differ if they’ve been developed for a specific use i.e. hollow casting. With most there is a so-called ‘green stage’ fresh out of the mould when the resin should be firm but still a little rubbery. This is the best time to trim or sand away such things as seam lines.

Below, if you imagine the rhino form feet-up and as a hollow cavity which is gradually filled through one of the legs, the liquid resin rises comfortably until it gets to the belly which becomes a ‘celing’ to the cavity. Air can easily get trapped here as it can no longer be pushed so easily upwards. A certain amount of rocking and tapping while pouring can help a lot but may not get rid of all. Often a channel would be drilled in the silicone plug (the pink part here) from the problem area to the outside top of the mould, to allow air to escape. Normally a test cast is made (or a few) to locate these problem areas first. Otherwise, a little more of the resin/filler mix can be made and the holes patched up, then trimmed or sanded. Polyurethane resin can be tooled (worked with power tools, carved or sanded) very easily, especially if a lightweight filler such as Fillite has been added.

Finally below, the finished cast (with the original behind it). I’d mentioned above that the Fillite gives the resin mix a sympathetic colour (which is also slightly speckled). This is one common purpose of fillers (especially marble or slate dust), to impart an appearance of other materials. But resins discolour in time; the UV (ultra violet) component of daylight causes yellowing. This is noticeable even if a filler or pigment has been added. In the case of polyester resins a UV blocker is available which can be added to the mix to prevent this. So far I don’t know of any equivalent additive for polyurethane resins. What this means is that if any permanence is needed for the surface effect polyurethane resin needs to be painted and, common to all plastics, that can mean quite a bit of preparation especially if the form will be handled.

Painting is another subject in itself, which I will probably deal with at some point, but for the moment.. the polyurethane cast should ideally be given a few days to fully cure, after which it should be carefully scrubbed in warm soapy water. It is better still to use a scouring powder which will make the surface ever so slightly rougher and more paint- receptive. Lastly the form needs a good priming coat using a spray primer, the best of which is Simoniz Acrylic primer. The most reliable, hard-wearing and versatile paints I’ve found, all of which are suitable on plastic if primed, are; Humbrol enamels, Rosco ‘Supersaturated’ scenic acrylics or Osmo oil/wax wood paints.


7 thoughts on “March casting exercise – ‘Two legs good..’ Part 3

  1. Wow pretty good job, i use polyurthane resins for casting miniatures, however is expensive for me and the uso of filler as you mentiones a ove is a very good choice. how about the polyresin have you ever heard of that kind of plastic?

    • I’m not sure what’s meant by that. I’ve heard it used to describe any ‘poly’ resin .. for example, polyurethane or polyester. I don’t know of any other ‘polyresin’. Polyester is much cheaper than polyurethane but it’s no good for casting miniatures .. too thick, and too brittle when cured!

  2. I look forward to the next installment.

    I desperately need to cut my molding cost. Have you come up with any way to reduce silicone? I came across a reusable silicone substitute, composimold (.com), but it melts at only 130F. The maker says it was originally developed as a backer for silicone. The idea is that a 1/4″ of silicone around the model will insulate the composimold. (I’ve always just mixed A & B then poured.)

    Any ideas would be much appreciated.

    • Hello Mike,

      Timely message! .. because I’ve just started some tests to tell me more about the best ways of recycling silicone and I was planning to post the results soon. I have no experience of Composimold, because it’s not known (or readily available) here in the UK. I just wonder how much detail it faithfully reproduces? It’s also rather a high price to pay for, basically, a gelatine and glycerine mixture don’t you think, however much it can be re-used? It’s technically listed as water-soluble, so what happens to the surface when you cast plaster into it? Here in the UK we use Gelflex or Vinamold (both fairly identical re-meltable vinyl compounds) for a cheap alternative to silicone. It’s about a third of the price of Composimold but it needs more heat .. melting at 150 Centigrade .. and not in a microwave! Wait for my post ‘Recycling or extending silicone’ which shouldn’t be too long.

      • I ran across Composimold while googling for reviews of reusable mold making substitutes for silicone. A group of plaster makers reported that the Composimold kind of came off in chunks.
        My experience is limited to using Smooth-on oomoo 30 silicone, followed by Smooth-on Onyx Slow RTV urethane resin. Unfortunately, it’s a bit expensive for me ($300 USD per pour of my models). Composimold costs about the same as oomoo, but claims to be reusable 33x or more. In the ideal world, I’d use the Composimold for all of my interim models, then switch to oomoo, or something more durable for my “keepers”. But I am certain that Onyx curing temps exceed 130F, which apparently would melt Composimold. Hmmmm…

  3. Thanks so much for sharing this process. I’m about to start casting in resin for the first time and it’s good to know I can cast awkward parts separately and that they’ll adhere to the rest of the cast. I have been wondering about that because I suspect the thing I’m casting is going to be a bit of a bubble trap so I’ll probably end up taking this approach.

    • Good luck with that! Let me know how things go. Out of interest, which resin are you planning to use? I’ve only tested this method using the polyurethane resin featured. Polyurethane resins (whichever brand) should behave the same but I haven’t tried with polyester. Since polyester can develop a tacky, uncured coating on the surface exposed to the air this would need to be properly removed from the separate pieces before filling the rest of the mould.

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